Colour Correcting and How to Not Look Like a Corpse
I’m sure you’ve been baffled at least once in your life with why a foundation matches you in nearly all areas of your face except some. And not only does it not match, it makes you look like Frankenstein’s wife. (I know. Bad joke *hangs head in shame* I was trying to be funny). Usually, when areas of your face look grey after wearing concealer or foundation, it’s due to darkness from hyper-pigmentation. Be it from acne, the hereditary melasma around your mouth/upper lip, or lack of sleep (if it’s under your eyes). This might start to drive you crazy (like it did me) but now is not the time to buy a foundation to match the pigmentation and make your face an entirely different colour to the rest of your body. Now is the time to colour correct. Ah, music to my ears.
How colour correcting works:
According to colour theory, whatever is opposite on the colour wheel will cancel/neutralise each other out. Your pigmentation has a purple, blue tinge to it and orange is opposite to it in the colour wheel. The darker in skin colour you are, the more orange/red the corrector will be. Fairer skin tones should use shades similar to salmon or pink.
The Steps to Colour Correct Severe Pigmentation:
- Apply corrector in one opaque layer on the pigmented areas. Do not blend out. You do not want the greyness coming through. I use: LA girl orange corrector or the MAC Studio Fix pure orange corrector.
- Let it dry for about five minutes. (I usually do my brows at this time) If you apply your concealer too early while the corrector is wet, it mixes with your concealer and becomes orange.
- Apply a full coverage foundation/ concealer over this. Because the corrector is so strong in colour, anything that is light or medium in coverage will not cover and the orange will peek through.
- Lastly (this step is optional) – sometimes I still feel like the pigmentation shows through. For extra measure I apply a powder foundation very lightly on top. I use MAC studio fix powder foundation.
Please note that this routine is for a full coverage look. Not light, natural makeup.
The Steps to Colour Correct Under the Eyes:
My under eyes are not as dark as my pigmentation, it’s also quite dry (so layers of product will make it look worse). I choose not to go in with an orange colour corrector. Instead, I use a slightly (emphasis on slight) pink/orange concealer that’s my skin shade (but has a different undertone). Interestingly enough, the Tarte Shape Tape concealer in ‘Tan Sand’ has a yellow undertone but oxidises slightly warmer and completes the task at hand perfectly.
What products do you use to colour correct? Do you have any tips and tricks on this topic?
Have a great day!